From surplus to success: Turning watercress into specialist skincare

The BDC played a central role in helping Watercress Research transform an innovative idea into a thriving skincare business.

When GP Kyle Stewart and Professor Emeritus Paul Winyard of Exeter University discovered that watercress could naturally block the enzyme responsible for nappy rash, they needed specialist expertise to make it commercially viable — and the BDC delivered exactly that.

After researching potential partners across the UK, the Watercress Research team chose the BDC for its responsiveness, specialist knowledge in extraction and bioprocessing, and collaborative network. The BDC validated the presence of urease inhibitors in watercress, developed a bespoke extraction methodology, provided comprehensive analytical services to characterise bioactive compounds, and conducted process optimisation studies to identify the ideal conditions for maximum efficacy.

This technical foundation enabled the team to scale from laboratory to full commercial production, building a facility capable of processing 300kg of watercress into 230 litres of extract in 15 hours. A sustainable supply chain was also established through The Watercress Company in Dorset — which produces 70% of the UK's watercress — repurposing surplus crop that would otherwise have been composted.
The results have been impressive. The Prof & Doc Skincare range launched in 2024 to strong customer praise, with the proprietary Watercress Active® extract now trade-marked. The business is progressing through regulatory testing, exploring major retail distribution, and pursuing medical applications including research at John Radcliffe Hospital and products for sports medicine and elderly care.

The BDC partnership continues, with ongoing work testing watercress varieties, monitoring extract stability, and developing larger-scale processing for international expansion — alongside efforts to utilise leftover fibre and protein towards fully zero-waste production.